Devil’s Kitchen: Looking for the Carbonara Code

This message went around the world faster than a plate of spaghetti alla carbonara gets cold. This dish was published in the New York Times as “Smoky Tomato Carbonara”. In it the yolk was mixed with tomato sauce. Brrrh. The Italian agricultural association Coldiretti reacted angrily, Italian politicians with a sniffle. There was talk of a “bad caricature” and that this was only “the tip of America’s lack of culture”. Let’s take a closer look at that. It is said that this sauce is named after charcoal burners. So the Carbonari. …