KitchenAid Mixer – A True Kitchen Design Classic

Continuing his look at kitchen icons, Andy Atkins considers kitchen items that combine instant recognition, longevity, and outstanding design. This time we are going to consider a genuine original that has been heavily copied, but never improved upon.

On a recent trip to the American Southwest, I was reminded of the practical and cultural attributes of KitchenAid mixers. Sitting in a restaurant that unusually focused on local produce and ‘proper’ cuisine, I noticed that the center of its open kitchen was occupied by two KitchenAid home mixers.

Why two mixers? Well, one was on a constant rotation of heavy duty mixing cookie dough for jaw-dropping examples of the about 20cm diameter genre (anyone for ginger and molasses?). The second mixer was used exclusively for a variety of southwestern burger recipes, using organic meat from the ranch next door.

What is my point Simply that KitchenAid mixers are nearly ubiquitous in US homes and small restaurants, it’s a ‘default’ kitchen workhorse.

In contrast, when UK customers first talk about KitchenAid mixers, a surprising number assume that despite its retro credentials, the mixer is a relatively recent introduction that is a step up from the venerable Kenwood that was the cornerstone of our mother’s (or grandmother’s) kitchens. For many, it is an aspirational product (not cheap) that is defined as much by its appearance as it is by its capabilities.

It’s a bit old in truth, and the origins of the machine date back to the 1910s. That’s decades before the Kenwood mixer shone in the eyes of its inventors!

The first model, the H-5, was launched by the Hobart Company in 1919 (still a major producer of professional kitchen appliances) after its inventor, Herbert Johnson, had seen bakers mix the dough by hand. Although successful, the machine was so heavy that it had to be sold door-to-door as major US retailers were not displaying it.

This first machine also introduced the concept of accessories, something we take for granted these days. Surprisingly, many of these early accessories will still fit modern versions.

KitchenAid’s breakthrough came in 1938 when revered product designer Egmont Arens (famous for Coca-Cola bottles) redesigned the H-5 and produced a machine that is nearly identical to the current Artisan model. This brought design, relative affordability, and acceptable size to the mixer.

This direct drive machine was the inspiration for the belt drive Kenwood that would dominate the UK market for years. In fact, it took Phillip’s purchase of the KitchenAid brand to bring this icon of American cuisine to Europe in significant quantities (and to appear on numerous cooking shows). This explains the belief of the people that it is a new “retro” machine.

Today, the KitchenAid Stand Mixer has changed little, although it is now available in a plethora of colors and with a wide variety of very capable accessories, from grain mills to sausage stuffers. Unusually for an ‘American product’ these days, it’s also made in Michigan and takes almost a day to assemble.

Obviously, as a long-time user, I have a deep affection for these robust and capable computers. Yet when you see them in daily use at an American restaurant that is literally over a hundred miles from anywhere that possibly sells a replacement machine or part, you are reminded why KitchenAid still sets the standard after almost a century.