Pros and Cons of Manual Force Grip Tests for Climbers

Usually the strength of the hand is tested with a piece of equipment called a manual dynamometer. There are numerous styles and types of dynamometers, but they are all designed in basically the same way. The device trigger is pulled with maximum effort and held for five seconds.

Results are determined from the best of several tests after allowing a minimum recovery time of at least 15 seconds between each attempt. The improvement is measured by comparing the results of the previous test with the current tests. Assuming continuous training is practiced between tests, improvements should be recorded on the dynamometer. The validity of dynamometer test results is sometimes questioned, as there are several conditions that can affect the result.

Here is a brief summary of the pros and cons of using this type of manual grip strength test.

Pros

  • The test is very simple and easy to administer for both right- and left-handed users.
  • The dynamometer is a widely used and accepted force testing device, so there is a concise and consistent scoring table.

Cons

  • Users should be sure to recalibrate the dynamometer as necessary to ensure accurate results.
  • Rest periods between tests should always be the same to ensure accuracy.
  • Techniques and arm positions can vary greatly from test to test. To be sure that the results are true, people must repeat the test in exactly the same way each time.
  • The dynamometer must be adjusted to the size of the person’s hand, which can lead to incorrect results if not done correctly.
  • The dynamometer does not isolate the force of the hand alone, since it also requires the use of the force of the forearm.
  • Final results are largely determined by the individual’s motivation to complete the test.

Although there appear to be pros and cons to using a dynamometer to measure hand strength, it is still the most reliable method available. Exercising the hand regularly can improve and maintain hand grip strength.

Simple hand strength exercises include squeezing a tennis ball or bean bag for 8-10 reps. Pushing exercises can be done anywhere and anytime without equipment. Simply place your hands together in prayer style and apply light pressure, holding and relaxing for several repetitions.

Hand grip exercises can help increase forearm strength that is essential for rock climbing and bouldering. Hanging from a chin bar is a great grip exercise, but so is just walking while gripping weights.

The most important item to remember is to include a variety of exercises in your workouts. Try to incorporate hand, wrist, finger, and forearm exercises into every workout. Ultimately, this will provide the best overall strength training.

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