A walk through the bars of Madrid

Bars in Madrid… Madrid is a city full of bars. They come in all shapes and sizes, and are an essential element of the local way of life. Many of us can say that we have grown up in bars, sitting at their bars, along with their bustle and noise. However, creating a favorites list is not an easy task for me and I assure you that I have all the necessary credentials after being a regular customer of many of them. Although things seem to be changing and, according to legend, good new bars are opening up, the fact is that most new bars lack interest.

A few years ago, in the mid-eighties, a group of friends and I set out to identify the bars in Madrid that retained a special soul and authenticity. It was almost an archaeological effort, as the growth of the city and the explosion of modernism during the 1960s and 1970s meant that many of Madrid’s traditional bars and old taverns were abandoned, turned into trendy establishments or, worse still, closed. .

Several of the bars in Madrid that we included in our list at the time continue to operate today, although some of them have undergone significant changes. One of my favorites is La Taberna de Angel Sierra, located in Plaza de Chueca, at Calle Gravina 11. This place has stood the test of time with its extraordinary zinc bar and its old wooden panels. It is a pity that its taps are no longer the typical Madrid beer Mahou, but Cruzcampo beer from Seville, also not served in the traditional Madrid cana glasses (small glass, about 10 fluid ounces). However, it is still one of my favorites. When you visit it, always accompany it with beer and a tuna skewer with anchovies.

Like most people of my generation, I love beer over wine, so my second recommendation is also an excellent Madrid bar/cerveceria at Plaza de Jesús 4, corner with Calle Lope de Vega, near the Prado Museum. and the Botanical Garden. I’m talking about La Dolores, a cheerful Madrid brewery from yesteryear that still serves real Mahou beer on excellent draft. The rounds of beer should be accompanied by some good anchovies in vinegar and French fries. After a few turns around La Dolores, take Calle Huertas and head to Casa Alberto, Calle Huertas 18. One of the oldest taverns in Madrid, founded in 1827, this bar still retains all its charm despite having undergone some renovations, its counter Made of wood and zinc, it is a jewel, and at the bar itself they serve some of the best tripe in Madrid.

Continue your tour of the bars of Madrid to Calle de Echegaray 7 where you will find La Venencia, a sherry with its own personality. The waiters pride themselves on being the most unfriendly of all the waiters in Madrid, and I can attest to that. I must warn you that, in fact, the waiters in the bars of Madrid are mostly very unfriendly and one must learn to live with that! It’s only when you join the ranks as a regular that you’ll be greeted and served with some level of friendliness. All this being said, this lovely establishment is not to be overlooked.

Speaking of rude waiters, I must mention another classic El Cangrejero establishment on Calle Amaniel 25, located near where the original Mahou factory used to be. The beer tapped here, this time Mahou, is excellent, but for many years the usual tapas were not served along with your drink and if the customer did not order an expensive appetizer (prawns or similar), the treatment was lousy. This establishment is worth visiting in any case to experience what I am talking about.

La Taberna de Antonio Sánchez, a legendary tavern frequented by fans of bullfighting, is another favorite destination. It continues to operate at Calle Mesón de Paredes 13 between Tirso de Molina and Lavapiés, but it has become more of a bar-museum, with no atmosphere and frequented mostly by tourists. There have been other cases of unfortunate transformations, such as that of one of the most famous breweries in Madrid, Riano, a true alma mater of the art of serving Mahou beer. After being closed for a few years, it reopened its doors. Although they managed to keep some of the old charm of the place, unfortunately they no longer serve Mahou beer, only Cruzcampo, and the management of the bar is lousy.

It is better to direct your steps towards Chamberi and visit La Nueva, located at the corner of Calle Arapiles and Calle Magallanes. Ricardo, a nice bartender who used to tell us stories about the people from his town, is no longer there, but the bar remains as it was, with its elegant bar and wooden panels covering a large part of the walls. You can taste a tasty chistorra (a type of sausage from the Basque Country made with minced pork or a mixture of minced pork and beef).

Another find is La Ardosa on Calle Colón 13 next to Gran Vía, an example of a bar that has adapted to the times and offers one of the best beer selections in Madrid and excellent tapas, be sure to try the salmorejo soup tomato and bread).

I highly recommend a visit to Casa Paco Madrid restaurant bar at Plaza de Puerta Cerrada 11, be sure to ask for wine, a traditional glass of Valdepeñas. It will be difficult to resist, especially if it is lunch or dinner time, to enter the dining room and savor its delicious tripe or its appetizing T-bone steaks. It is a favorite among my American friends. It doesn’t surprise me one bit!

Not far from Casa Paco on Calle Toledo 106, near the gate of the same name Puerta de Toledo and near the mythical Vicente Calderón stadium where Atlético de Madrid makes its fans suffer and cheer, me being one of them! You have to try some snails at the De los Caracoles bar. In my opinion, this old tavern underwent an atrocious renovation that completely depersonalized it, but they still serve some of the best snails in Madrid. Very close, at Calle Calatrava 11, you will find La Taberna de Dani, a historic and intimate wine bar that still retains much of its charm today and where they still serve an excellent jerky (salted and air-cured meat) and exceptional ham.

Speaking of cold cuts, I cannot fail to mention Casa Emilio, a tavern with a beautiful tiled façade that serves delicious spicy chorizo ​​de León. It is located at Calle López de Hoyos 98, almost on the corner with Calle Cartagena, in the Prosperidad neighborhood.

And here ends, my friends, this nostalgic walk through the bars and taverns in Madrid that I frequented at the time and continue to frequent, where I cultivated the beloved sport of friendship along with some good beers. If you visit one of them, have a beer to my health…