Measuring Emerald Quality: Five Important Guidelines

Emeralds, the most famous green gems, have been sought after and coveted for thousands of years. From the days of the ancient pharaohs to the present, the allure of emeralds has captivated the mind and heart of man. However, not all emeralds are created equal, there are certain characteristics that differentiate quality emeralds from less desirable stones. Whether shopping around for an emerald or just browsing through them, these five basic guidelines will help anyone gauge the quality of emeralds.

Before we cover the list of guidelines, let’s first take a look at what emeralds are. Emeralds are a rare form of the mineral beryl, but they are not alone in the beryl family. The name beryl is applied to several varieties of gems, all with similar chemical compositions. The word beryl comes from the Greek ‘beryllos’ which translates as ‘beautiful blue-green color’. Even so, not all beryls have this characteristic. Aquamarine is perhaps the closest beryl to emeralds, as it is a very light bluish-green color that resembles that of clear deep water, hence its name. The red form of beryl is known as bixbite. While goshenite is the clear form of beryl. There is also heliodor and morganite which are yellow and pink respectively. Beryl colors vary due to slight differences in elemental influences. Each of these beryls is unique and, like emeralds, has different standards and quality levels. With that said, let’s examine what sets emeralds apart and how to measure their quality.

observe the color

The first and most important characteristic to measure the quality of emeralds is color. Colombia has been famous for emeralds of exquisite beauty since the mid-16th century. The Muzo and Chivor mines are the most prominent in trade circles and this can sometimes be misleading. Emerald dealers often use the names Muzo and Chivor to describe an emerald’s color when, in fact, that may not be the origin. As a general rule, Muzo implies a grass green, with yellow being the secondary color. While Chivor represents a deep pine green, with blue being the secondary color. Similarly with Brazilian emeralds, the name implies the color rather than the emerald mine or country. However, the value lies in the color rather than the origin. “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder” Emeralds are rare, as are all gemstones. However, emeralds are even rarer than diamonds, making Muzo and Chivor type emeralds highly prized and often quite expensive.

judge the clarity

A close second to color in determining the quality of emeralds is clarity. The more opaque an emerald is, the less it is worth. Emeralds are the most included of all gemstones, which to some extent affects their clarity and certainly their value. A good emerald will have what is known as eye clarity, which basically means that it does not have highly visible fissures or cracks. It will have a silky smooth appearance and the light will shine with fire throughout the stone. However, a quality emerald will also have an increased clarity. A loupe is what is known as a jeweler’s loupe. The standard loupe is 10x and less is not recommended as extremely fine cracks that run the full width of the stone may not be seen. All emeralds are treated with special oils to reduce the visibility of inclusions. When buying an emerald, check the clarity under a magnifying glass if possible, if not, make sure you buy from a reputable company. A sure way to know if you are dealing with a reputable company is to check their customer satisfaction record as well as their return policy. On a side note: beware of composite emeralds, these are emeralds that are put together from shards and held together with special bonding agents, a magnifying glass will easily distinguish them from real emeralds and reputable dealers and jewelers will loathe them alike.

Notice the cut

When most people imagine emeralds, the classic emerald cut comes to mind, and for good reason. The stepped cuts and symmetry of the classic emerald cut allow for maximum reflection and refraction of light. That is not to say that other cuts are less valuable in any way. When it comes to cutting, precision determines value. For example, if you don’t see a bright glow, the cut could be too steep, allowing light to escape from the sides and causing a pale appearance. On the other hand, too shallow a cut and the emerald will appear dark and dull. Due to inclusions, some emeralds need to be cut a certain way, whether it be pear-shaped, heart-shaped, tear-shaped, or diamond-shaped. This is done to minimize the loss of raw glass during the cutting process. A precision cut regardless of the shape will only increase the value of the emerald.

carat weight

The least important on the scale for measuring the quality of emeralds is the carat weight. That’s not to say the weight isn’t significant. Of course, a very clear deep green emerald weighing 5 carats would be worth much more than a 2 carat emerald with exactly the same qualities. However, a 1 carat emerald could be worth much more than a 4 carat emerald of inferior color and clarity. Unlike diamonds, where weight is central, emeralds should always be measured for color and clarity first, followed by cut, and finally weight.

Synthetic Vs. Natural

A common misconception is that synthetic (lab-grown) emeralds are fake. The fact is that they are real beryl and they are emeralds. The difference is that they are artificial, not natural. Synthetic emeralds have telltale signatures in their inclusions that are easily recognized by gemologists. Early attempts to grow emeralds in the laboratory failed due to their extreme clarity. The lack of inclusions were its demise. However, modern technology and highly sophisticated equipment have been able to duplicate the inclusions in lab-grown emeralds. Partly because of this, FTC law requires jewelers to disclose the properties of the emeralds they sell if they are synthetic. All reputable dealers and jewelers subscribe to this policy as it protects both the market investor and the dealer. That said, it is important to note that while they are not worth as much as natural gems, lab-grown emeralds are still quite valuable for the same reasons as natural emeralds.

When shopping for or searching for emeralds, whether at a gem show, jewelry store, or online. Following the five guidelines above will not only help you gauge the quality of emeralds, it will also help you earn the respect of reputable jewelers and dealers and protect their interest.