Skin Care History Part 19: The Great Depression, 1930-1939

The crash

Everything changed suddenly in 1929 when the stock market crashed. Many of the rich became poor overnight and many of the poor became destitute. While the shocks were felt throughout the Western world, the United States bore the brunt of the Depression. Tent cities and shacks sprang up in urban centers, bread lines stretched for blocks, and many people were forced to leave their homes in search of work. Even those with secure employment were forced to tighten their belts. Money was tight and times were uncertain, making people very careful with what they had. Public extravagance quickly fell out of fashion, even among the wealthy. The displays of wealth were considered conspicuous in light of the mass poverty that had struck the nation. However, skin care continued to be on many people’s minds. In fact, by 1930, the cosmetics industry was the fourth largest industry in the country.

While many women had to adjust their beauty routines, they still strove to achieve the looks made popular by their favorite movie stars. Glamor was still in style, although it was much more subdued than in the 1920s. “Shiny” heavy cream makeup was popular, as were eyeliner, lipstick, and blush. However, while the eye makeup was still applied thickly, it was toned down from the exaggerated “vamp” eyes of the previous decade. Instead of dramatic bee-stung lips, movie stars and everyday women preferred a simple wash of color in their mouths. In fact, lipstick now came in a multitude of softer pinks, as well as the vibrant reds so loved in the twenties. While Max Factor was still a favorite of Hollywood stars, women now had several manufacturers to choose from, including Lancôme, Elizabeth Arden, and Revlon.

Making skin care products in depression

In order to boost failed sales, manufacturers released a constant stream of updates to their beauty products. Blush was available in both cream and powder form. Lipstick came in an ever-widening range of colors. Elsa Schiaparelli was the first to launch a luminous lipstick near the start of the decade. She named her light pink signature, “Schiap”, in her honor. By the end of the decade, women could buy her lipstick and nail polish in matching shades. Inexpensive soaps and cold creams also continued to be top sellers, with Palmolive and Ivory leading the foam pack.

Despite the low cost of basic soaps and cleansers, many women chose to save money by making their own skin care treatments and antiaging products. Fashion magazines often published recipes for cold creams and toners that could be made from homemade ingredients. A basic cold cream, for example, may contain ingredients like beeswax, mineral oil, water, and borax. Skin toner recipes varied widely and could contain anything from milk and lemon juice to sugar and witch hazel. The toners were meant to open the pores and revitalize the skin. Most featured astringent or acidic ingredients, as well as an essential oil that served as a scent or perfume.

The daily skin care regimen

Although multi-step skin care wasn’t marketed or sold until the 1960s, most women followed a daily beauty routine that required a number of different products. Whether rich or poor, most women used cold cream to clean their faces. Although soap was widely used, it was considered too strong for the delicate skin of the face and was generally reserved for cleansing the rest of the body. The cold cream was made with an oil base and was able to clean away dirt and grime without drying out the skin. The women would apply a thin layer of the cream and then wipe it off with a soft cloth.

After cleansing, a range of stimulants, toners and skin creams can be applied. Face creams were often used as anti-aging masks and were usually high in fat or oil. It was thought that once the oil was absorbed by the skin, it would fill in wrinkles and result in a smooth, youthful complexion. Only once their skin was thoroughly cleansed, revitalized, hydrated, and treated would the women apply the thick cream that would form the base of their makeup.